How to remove the clutch cable
Notes:
1. When correctly positioned, you should be able to pull the cable
hosing free from the adjuster when it is at its closest to the lever.
2. when adjusting; when you pull the lever it should pull easily, as
it tightens, you know the clutch lever is operating, as it tightens again,
you will know the clutch itself is being opened. To take out the slack
undo the adjuster bolt, until the cable reaches it first "bite", then test. |
| 1. Using a pair of pliers, undo fully the locking ring from the clutch
cable |
Mechanic,
photos, & words: Si
|
| 2. Fully tighten the adjuster bolt into the lever |
Mechanic,
photos, & words: Si
|
| 3. Align the groove on the adjuster/locking ring and the lever |
Mechanic,
photos, & words: Si
|
| 4. Pull and wriggle the outer casing of the cable until you can see
the outer casing is free from adjuster bolt. |
|
| 5. pull the outer casing forward, then down, releasing the barrel nipple
from it's housing. |
|
Model used Suzuki GSX550E Slingshot
Mechanic, words and photo's - Si
For Internal cable connections!
|
Under construction
|
For External cable connections!
(photos are from a Honda VT500, the position of the adjuster
might vary on different machines, but the basics are the same)
| Note: The arm which is connected to the shaft, should be easily movable,
to a point. As you pull the arm, it will tighten up, this is where the
clutch begins to bite. When adjusting this cable you should be able to
free the nipple before the clutch bites. |
| 1. Pull the nipple from it's fixing. see note above. |
|
| 2. Pull the rubber cover (where fitted) free from the cable connection |
|
3. Undo the locking nut on the adjuster nearest to the engine.
leave the rear locking nut in position, as it gives you a rough idea
where to reach the right amount of slack. |
|
| 4. Undo the adjuster bolt. Some times these are threaded through the
engine mount, this one how ever, just pulls through |
|
Mechanic, Northern Nick
photos, & words: Si
|
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